By: darren

darren — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 17:03:18 +0000

This is the second or third time I have done this, always with good results. I actually picked up this technique a while back (before I started kegging) when I had a very strong beer that would not carbonate. After a month or two, was talking with the LHS guy, who sold me a pack of dried cuvée yeast. He said, “this stuff will eat anything.” He explained, just add a few “granules” of yeast to each bottle. And, sure enough a few weeks later, solid carbonation. So, the next time I did a strong ale with an extended fermentation / conditioning period, decided to simply stack the cards in my favor, and just dope each bottle with a little bit of fresh yeast.
The technique I use is to take a small sheet of paper, and fold it in half with a good stiff crease. I pour a small about of dried yeast into the crease. Then tap the paper on the mouth of a filled bottle, to deliver two or three granules of yeast. Cap the bottle and agitate. I seem to get pretty consistent results, with a minimum or sediment in each bottle.
My worry with re-hydrating yeast and adding it to the whole batch, is (was) I am uncertain how to add the proper amount. I full pitch would seem excessive, to me.

By: brewmasterm

brewmasterm — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 21:38:33 +0000

How does the bottle conditioning work out when adding the dry yeast granules directly to the bottles? Any advantage to doing it that way and not rehydrating a small amount of the yeast and mixing it into the solution? Thanks for your description – I’ve got an overly strong Belgian Dubbel that is nearly done fermenting and I’m debating my bottling options after doing some cool aging in the secondary.

Comments on: Tripel – Batch 2 ½

By: darren

By: brewmasterm